The NEOUS woman is wholeness made of parts, like the day stirring night to light. And this season evokes her cosmos––layered, changeable––at once sharp-angled, at once rippling. A deep exploration of sensuality and touch defines it, in the ripple and the fold of Phinia, Chondro, Chopsis, where Nappa leather is crumpled cloth and in the Bardiela and Tuberola ruched heel boot.
The theme of continuous energy that is part of the NEOUS language gains centrifugal force in AW19. The defining silhouette of the season is the golden spiral heel, a sprung coil of gold that wends its way round a central pillar. It creates an intriguing negative space on minimalist mules or fine strap sandals.
This collection celebrates shoes for bodies in perpetual motion, framed by the idea of energy and movement, the shape of the human body and creating forms that flow with it. Each item celebrates the power that comes with the freedom of motion.
The NEOUS woman knows how to find her balance and turn it into something bold. Sculptural heels are married with simple silhouettes; optic whites are paired with punchy colours and organic wood plays with Perspex. Discovering a delicate balance between opposing elements is vital. The NEOUS woman knows both, but resides somewhere in-between.
Enduring icons are important to NEOUS. It’s why we focus on classic shapes, gently abstracted. For the Spring collection black, white and tan make for an elegant and hardworking palette, whilst masculine shapes such as loafers get a rework. Favourite NEOUS tropes – transparency, asymmetry – find new forms of expression in naked mules and sculpted heels.
Inspired by the fluidity of the female body the collection explores the continuity of form - no line is ever broken. With the au naturel aesthetic of the mid 90’s as a springboard, transparency, spare lines and unfussy wearability combine, reflecting the minimalist codes intrinsic to NEOUS.
The power of the circle – in art as in design – is something that has long fascinated the NEOUS creative directors. With no beginning and no end, it represents an absolute purity. This, as well as finding a harmony between natural and man-made textiles is an enduring fascination that underpins the design of the collection this season.